A total guide to teen skin — according to the experts

Today’s teens are bombarded with an overwhelming amount of advice and product choices; much of it from unreliable and unqualified sources on social media platforms, such as TikTok, and entirely inappropriate for hormonally challenged and sensitive adolescent skin. It’s common for parents to feel just as baffled as their kids when it comes to choosing the right skincare, so finding straightforward answers can be tricky.
For better or for worse, there has been a recent spate of teen-focused skincare brands. Although these do add to the avalanche of options out there, the best brands eliminate unnecessary steps and ingredients for teen skin, focusing on simplicity and self-acceptance while appealing to their target audience.
“They want products that openly say they’re formulated for teen skin, with light textures and smells that can provide emotional connections,” says Reena Hammer, co-founder and CEO of teen cosmetics brand Indu.
Is teen skincare the answer?
Some dermatologists are not so sure ‘teen’ skincare is needed at all. It’s argued that established, reputable dermatological brands such as Bioderma, CeraVe, and La Roche-Posay, provide a comprehensive range of products that cater to the needs of young skin if the appropriate products are chosen. However, that’s a big ‘if’ for many parents.
In light of this confusion, consultant dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite can see some point in teen-specific skin ranges: “They will be accessible and very clear in their messaging,” she says.
“It’s no bad thing for teens to have that reassurance that a product is appropriate for their skin. In my practice, I see how these kids are drawn to Insta-viral brands such as Drunk Elephant, plenty of whose formulations should not be used on teen skin. Dedicated ranges with teen appeal will at least help young people make the right choices.”
Are teen ‘skinfluencers’ dangerous or helpful?
All skin professionals are alarmed at the influence the likes of TikTok and other social media platforms exert: “as we speak, there’s a social media trend for teenagers showcasing their luxury skincare routines involving actives like vitamin C and retinoids,” says Dr Anjali Mahto. “As a consultant dermatologist, I must emphasise that a 13-year-old’s skincare routine should prioritise basic hygiene, not unnecessary complexity.”
“I recently saw a 14-year-old who was concerned about crow’s feet, undoubtedly brought on by the social media and influencers she was invested in” she adds. “It leads to an unhealthy focus by young kids on premature ageing.”
It also causes congested skin: “I see many teenagers in clinic whose breakouts were set off by too-rich skincare recommended by influencers,” says dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams. Even her son fell for it: “He came back from uni with spots all over his face, and admitted he’d switched to skincare recommended by an online influencer, rather than listening to his dermatologist mother. As with many patients, once I’d ousted these products from his routine, his skin cleared up.”
With all that in mind, what care do skincare experts and formulators advise for adolescents suffering from hormonal skin changes and all the insecurity and confusion they bring? We asked them to tell it to us straight…
What should a teen skincare routine look like?
The main purpose should be to set up healthy habits for life. “From a young age, you want to educate kids on personal hygiene and help them be confident and feel good about themselves,” says Sam Farmer, cosmetic chemist and creator of Sam Farmer Professional Personal Care, a ‘teen’ skincare range that dermatologists are happy to recommend. “It’s not a game, it’s important.”
With even ‘tween’ (kids between the ages of nine and 12) skincare being a ‘thing’ these days, experts like to point out that skincare at this age needs to be even more basic than that for ‘proper’ teenagers (aged 13 to 18). “Acne will in most cases not yet be an issue, and building hygiene practices is all they really need,” says Dr Granite.
Once true teenage chaos kicks in, things can get a little more sophisticated — but teens still basically need just a few essentials: cleanser twice a day, moisturiser, spot treatments (if appropriate) and sunscreen, all adjusted as necessary to their skin type and potential issues.
Cleanser
As is true for most people, teens need “a cleanser that clears the pores thoroughly, while at the same time not being harsh or drying,” says Williams. “A gentle foaming cleanser or non-oily gel cleanser often work well, used with lukewarm water and hands – no cleansing brushes or other gadgets needed.”
For lucky teens with normal skin and for the small percentage with eczema-prone, dry skin, a hydrating wash will remove sebum, sweat, dirt, make-up and pollution while adding some hydration. Gentle milk or cream-to-foam cleansers like Indu Universal Cream Cleanser are a good option.
However, “Given the hormonal fluctuations typical in teenagers, the largest percentage will have oily or blemish-prone skin and can benefit from water-based, cosmetic cleansers with mild actives like salicylic acid (at a maximum level of 2%) or benzoyl peroxide,” says Mahto. Williams’ Delo RX The Hybrid Cleanser is a highly sophisticated example of this. Formulated for oily skin with ageing concerns, it’s nonetheless gentle enough for young skin – if you care to share your pricey cleanser with your teens.
As a more affordable option, try La Roche Posay Effaclar Purifying Foaming Gel, a brand regularly recommended by derms, or Acnecide Face Wash Spot Treatment with Benzoyl Peroxide which removes impurities and breakout-causing bacteria for a fresh, clean feel.
Moisturiser
For uncomplicated, ‘normal’ skin, keep it simple and stick to lightweight formulas (avoid anything greasy) with protective antioxidants (think green tea, niacinamide or vitamin E),” says Williams. Emollient (skin-softening) lotions with light moisturising ingredients such as lanolin, squalane and colloidal oatmeal can work well too, and are imperative if the skin is eczema-prone. Try Bioderma Hydrabio Moisturising Serum, or Aveeno calm + restore oat gel moisturiser, which is fragrance-free and hypoallergenic, offering lightweight hydration that feels cooling on application.
Even if skin is oily, Dr Granite recommends never cutting out hydration altogether. If skin is oily and/or “congested (with blackheads or whiteheads) or blemish-prone (with inflamed pimples), the key is to choose hydrators that don’t clog pores and thus aggravate the acne,” adds Williams. Heavy, greasy, lipid-rich and silicone-rich moisturisers are out: reach instead for an oil-free moisturiser, gel or serum such as La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo+M Anti-Blemish Corrective Gel Moisturiser. Added anti-bacterial, pore-clearing ingredients can be very beneficial.
If you’re not sure about skin type, Granite points out that light, oil-free moisturisers or gels will be a safe go-to for most teens.
Sunscreen
Most experts agree that sunscreen is important to make a habit of from an early age, but daily SPF, as recommended for adults who care about keeping signs of ageing at bay, may be a step too far for young teens.
Mahto limits her SPF recommendation to the sunny-ish months: “for adolescents engaging in outdoor sports between March and October in the U.K, the inclusion of a sunscreen with a factor of 30-50 on all exposed areas is advisable,” she says.
For Williams’ part, “teenagers should avoid excessive sun exposure and wear SPF when out in the sun in summer.” But, she’s reluctant to recommend year-round face SPF for teenagers; “as healthy vitamin D levels are so incredibly important for general health and we see a lot of concerning vitamin D-deficiency in teenagers these days.”
The layering of too many oil-rich products is a problem for teens as well, although they can easily substitute their moisturiser for an oil-free, broad-spectrum daily SPF. One very light, dermatologist-recommended (Granite likes this brand) and teen shelfie-worthy option is UltraViolette Fave Fluid SPF50+ Ultra-Light Skinscreen.
Spot control
Many teens will require a level of treatment for intermittent or persistent breakouts. “A 2% salicylic acid serum, gel or cleanser (choose one to include in your regime) is the effective gold standard for keeping pores purified and blemishes under control,” says Granite.
Williams adds that other ingredients worth trying for mild breakout cases include PHAs (polyhydroxy acids, which are gentler than AHAs, so her preference) and/or azelaic acid. If the acne is quite serious, seek the help of a dermatologist, though.
When should your teen see a dermatologist?
If breakouts are mild and not leaving scarring, a trial with over-the-counter products like the ones mentioned above for 3-6 months is sensible, reckons Williams. But if that does not clear the breakouts, which for teens tend to be on the oily, seborrheic side with lots of blackheads and whiteheads, she says they should see a doctor for prescription creams.
Teenage breakouts and spots are not ‘just one of those things’ that you have to soldier through, she says. “Whether you’re a teenager or a middle-aged woman, breakouts, pimples, blackheads and whiteheads are a sign your skin is not completely happy and healthy and needs some help.”
“Remember, early treatment is vital. Acne breakouts can leave scarring, which is why it’s so important to seek medical treatment early rather than trying to fix things yourself with over-the-counter remedies or cosmetic treatments,” says Williams. “Don’t mess around!”
For best results, always talk to your derm about any over-the-counter skincare used at home, as these influence the skin strongly and can in some cases make or break prescription treatment.
What does teen skin not need?
It’s easy to overdo it when it comes to treating teen skin. So here are (more than) a few things that you will do well to avoid…
Toners and peels
“This is a myth many teenagers fall for,” says Williams. “Toners (especially the alcohol-based ones of old) are usually not necessary these days, as we don’t use harsh soaps that leave residues any longer but have soap-free facial cleansers instead.”
Acid exfoliators ‘for glowing skin’ are a no-no, says Granite, especially high percentages of AHAs such as glycolic acid. These peel away dead skin that simply isn’t there yet, and can be very irritating. As mentioned, they can be helpful in the case of acne, particularly salicylic acid, which purifies congested pores.
Physical exfoliators
Grainy scrubs should be avoided like the plague, especially if you have spots; they can make blemishes worse.
Vitamin C serums
Young skin simply doesn’t need brightening, anti-ageing vitamin C, and high percentages can be irritating,” says Granite. Other primarily anti-ageing ingredients such as peptides and growth factors are simply unnecessary.
Face oils
“A definite no for teens,” says Granite, who doesn’t even like them for adult skin. “They can overload and clog pores and don’t add anything to the equation.” Williams flags that this includes “most trendy water-free and waterless products. Those often contain oils or silicone derivatives as their main ingredient, instead of water.”
The best skincare brands for teen skin
Read on for recommendations from dermatologists and beauty experts..
Indu
Created with the input of a large peer group of teens, this is skincare that is straightforward, microbiome balancing and non-aggressive but feels desirable to use thanks to gentle scents, silky textures and eco-sound packaging.
CeraVe
Widely recommended by dermatologists, this fragrance-free, budget-friendly brand focuses on basic skin health and proven ingredients and is mild enough for teen skin. Its range of cleansers for every skin type is particularly praised.
La Roche Posay Effaclar
The No1 dermatologist-recommended brand in the UK has an acne-focused franchise called Effaclar that experts approve of for teen skin. The Toleriane franchise is good for very sensitive, eczema-prone skins.
Acnecide+Purifide
These up-and-coming twin skincare ranges cover a wide spectrum of blemish-prone skins, with Acnecide powered by benzoyl peroxide and Purifide by salicylic acid, anti-inflammatories and probiotics. Tailored and straightforward, it has everything you need to cleanse, treat and moisturise young and older problem skin.
Dermalogica Clear Start
Dermalogica’s teen franchise concentrates on breakout-prone skin on the face and body, featuring colourful packaging and some ‘grown up’ products such as a clearing booster and oil-free daily SPF30.
Bioderma
There’s a vast amount of products in Bioderma’s line-up, and this French dermatological skincare brand has everything young skin needs. The Sebium range is for combination, oily and acne-prone skin.
Bubble
A youth-focused brand, promising a steady, slow and safe approach to skincare rather than one using aggressive actives. To help you navigate the range, there are products that are specifically flagged as suitable for customers of all ages, including teens. All of the below products fit into that category.
Sam Farmer Professional Skincare for Teenagers
Entirely non-nonsense and carefully formulated by a skincare scientist, these unisex products look fun enough for girls and basic enough for boys and make sticking to essential skincare easy.
Spots & Stripes
Designed for tweens that want to play around with skincare but ought to do it responsibly, this range is cute and simple, offering gentle cleansing and hydration.